Philodendrons are also a great plant choice to purify the air in your home. They’re best planted in the spring, but houseplants typically can be started with success at any time of year. They are toxic to pets and humans if ingested. Keep your plant’s leaves looking and functioning their best by regularly wiping them off with a damp cloth. These plants don’t have any serious issues with pests or diseases. But they can be susceptible to common houseplant pests, including aphids, mealybugs, scale, thrips, and spider mites. Treat pests with a natural insecticidal soap or horticultural oil.
Light
This species typically grows best in partial sunlight. Philodendrons need sun, but they would naturally receive dappled light under a tropical canopy rather than direct light. Indoors, set them up by a window that gets bright, indirect light. Too little light can result in leggy growth with lots of space in between the leaves. But too much light can cause many of the leaves to turn yellow at the same time. (Only a few leaves yellowing is typically just normal aging.)
Soil
Philodendrons like loose potting soil that’s rich in organic matter. The soil must have good drainage. For container plants, it’s recommended to replace your philodendron’s soil every couple of years or so. These plants are sensitive to salts that accumulate in the soil via watering, which can cause leaf browning and yellowing. You can periodically flush out some of the salts by watering your container thoroughly until water comes out of its drainage holes. But eventually, the soil will need refreshing.
Water
These plants generally like a moderate amount of soil moisture. When determining how often you should water your philodendron, find the proper watering schedule by checking its soil: Water this plant whenever the top inch of soil has dried out. Both overwatering and underwatering can cause the leaves to droop, so gauge when it’s time to water by the soil dryness and not necessarily the leaves. Philodendrons don’t do well sitting in soggy soil, as this can lead to root rot. The non-climbing varieties tend to have a little more drought tolerance than the vining species. Reduce your watering schedule for indoor plants during the winter.
Temperature and Humidity
The temperature tolerance of philodendrons varies based on the species. In general, they should not be exposed to temperatures below 55 degrees Fahrenheit. Indoors protect them from cool drafts, such as those from an air-conditioning vent. These plants like humidity, so you might have to boost humidity around your philodendron if you live in a dry climate. To do so, you can mist the plant every few days with water from a spray bottle. You can also place the container on a tray of pebbles filled with water, ensuring that the bottom of the container isn’t touching the water, which can lead to root rot.
Fertilizer
Use a balanced liquid fertilizer monthly on your plant in the spring and summer. For the amount to use, follow the product label instructions. Then, reduce feeding to every six to eight weeks in the fall and winter. If your plant isn’t getting enough food, its growth will be slower than normal, and its leaves might appear smaller than usual.
Types of Philodendron
The most common species of philodendron include:
Philodendron scandens: This plant is a very popular climber. It has heart-shaped leaves that are sometimes multicolored. Philodendron erubescens: This is a vigorous climber with reddish stems and leaves. The philodendron ‘Pink Princess’ variety of this species grows with heart-shaped leaves that have pink variegated sections. Philodendron melanochrysum: This plant is a stunning climber with dark, velvety leaves powdered in bronze. Philodendron rojo: This is a hybrid that stays small and manageable but retains its vigor. Philodendron bipinnatifidum: This is a large plant with deeply lobed leaves and is sometimes called lacy tree philodendron. Philodendron ‘Birkin’: This variety offers thin white stripes on its green leaves, and it’s sometimes referred to as white wave philodendron. Philodendron hederaceum ‘Brasil’: As a cultivar of the heartleaf philodendron, this species has signature heart-shaped leaves with lime green variegation. Philodendron micans is a similar cultivar with deep green leaves. Philodendron gloriosum: Unlike popular trailing varieties, philodendron gloriosum has an upright growth habit with large green leaves featuring striking white veins. Philodendron selloum: This extra-large variety can reach more than 5 feet wide, and its split leaves are its signature trait (not to be confused with Monstera deliciosa, which also features split leaves).
Pruning
If your philodendron vines get too long or leggy, cut them back using sterilized pruning shears or scissors. The best time to do this is in the spring or summer. You can safely give your philodendron a light trim any time of year to remove yellowing leaves and trim spindly growth. It’s best to cut just above a leaf node. Take your stem cuttings and use them for propagation.
Propagating Philodendrons
Philodendrons are easy to propagate from stem cuttings and division. Increase your own stock or give newly propagated pots of this popular houseplant to friends. The best time to propagate is in the early spring as the days grow longer. Here’s how to propagate philodendrons from these methods: How to propagate from stem cuttings: How to divide your philodendron:
Growing Philodendron From Seed
Growing philodendrons from seed is a slow process; stem cuttings are much faster. But, if you insist: In a 6-inch pot, you can plant several seeds. Plant one seed every 2-inches about 1/3 of an inch deep in rich soil. Cover the plant with plastic. Remove the plastic occasionally to allow air in. Spray the soil regularly to keep it moist. Philodendron seeds do not need to be soaked before planting. The seeds will take about two to eight weeks to germinate at a soil temperature between 68 and 73 degrees Fahrenheit. When the seedlings sprout and become sturdy enough to handle, move each one to a small pot of its own to foster strong root development.
Potting and Repotting Philodendrons
Plant a philodendron in a slightly larger container than its root ball with ample drainage holes. When the roots start poking up from the soil and out of the pot’s drainage holes, it’s time to repot the philodendron. The ideal time to repot is in the late spring or early summer. Select one pot size up. Gently remove your plant from its old pot, and place it in the new one with fresh soil at the bottom and around its sides. Then, water the plant thoroughly.
Overwintering
Tropicals need to be overwintered in the house if you do not live in a tropical zone. Many tropicals and common houseplants do well through the winter indoors. They adapt quickly to indoor conditions. As the days shorten and the temperatures cool, philodendrons need a little less water than during the warmer growing season. Also, only water when the top of the soil starts to become dry to the touch when indoors. Before you bring the plants inside, use pruners to cut off the yellowing leaves or long leggy stems and check for mold, signs of decay, and insects.
Common Problems With Philodendron
Philodendrons are easy-going plants that acclimate well to indoor living and can also propagate easily. They are prone to some wellness issues when water, sun, and soil conditions are not being met. Here are some signs to look for and how to handle them.
Yellowing Leaves
Several issues can cause yellowing leaves, such as giving it water that’s too cold, not offering enough sunlight, or exposing the plant to too much bright light. If the older leaves are yellowing, then you may be under-watering the plant. If the younger bottom sets of leaves turn yellow, you may be overwatering the plant. In most cases, adjust these factors to see your plant rebound. If you give plant food to your philodendron, be careful to water the soil first, add a water-diluted fertilizer solution, and then water the plant again. These extra steps ensure the roots do not get burned by the chemicals in the fertilizer, which can cause yellowing.
Yellowing and Rotting Smell
If your plant’s leaves turn yellow very quickly, it can be a sign of root rot. If you catch it quickly, you might be able to save the plant. Smell the soil for a rotting odor or dig up the root to inspect its health. In most cases, cut away the black, mushy pieces of rotting root and replant the white or yellow portions of roots in a clean container with fresh soil.
Yellow Splotches or Patterning on Leaves
If you notice small yellow lesions or patterns on your plant’s leaves, it can be a sign of the mosaic virus. You may be able to get rid of the virus by helping the plant defend itself: If the temperature is still warm, bring the plant outside for some indirect, natural light. Keep the infected plant at least 2-feet away from other plants. Remove the badly affected leaves. Hose down the rest of the leaves, removing any dust on the surface of the leaves. Apply a diluted nitrogen-rich fertilizer to the soil, to help the plant grow back stronger.
Browning Leaves
If your plant develops browning leaf edges, you may be shocking your plants with water that’s too cold. Also, if your plant’s leaves start to get brown and mushy, you are likely overwatering. Brown leaf edges that start to curl indicate the plant needs more water and less sun. Make adjustments accordingly. Browning leaf tips with yellow halos can indicate that your plant needs more humidity. You can mist the plant’s leaves or place the plant container atop a tray of pebbles filled with water to raise the humidity. Don’t submerge the plant base; keep it right above the waterline.
