The lamp must include a housing with a metal safety guard to prevent starting a fire if the lamp falls (250-watt heat lamp bulbs run extremely hot). It also helps to have a height-adjustable lamp or have means for moving the lamp to regulate the temperature. The area under the lamp should be 95 F the first week, then it should be decreased by 5 degrees per week until the chicks are fully feathered out. This takes about six weeks or until the outdoor nightly temperature meets the target temperature. Once they’re a bit bigger, they can handle a gallon-size or larger waterer. After about two weeks, move to a 5-gallon metal waterer. Place the waterers a piece of wood or other makeshift stand to prevent shavings from falling into the water. Allow free access to the feed at all times. The very first day, spread some feed on a piece of cardboard, then tap the cardboard. The chicks immediately find the feed, and the sound of beaks tapping on cardboard leads other chicks to the sound. After about a week or two, move to a tube-style feeder, but leave out the chick feeders and the new feeder together for a day or so, to make sure they find the new food. Important: Chick starter feed comes in medicated and non-medicated formulas. If you have your chicks vaccinated for coccidiosis at the hatchery, do not use medicated feed. If they’re unvaccinated, you might want to provide them with medicated feed for extra protection.
Gro Gel Plus is a gel that you feed to new hatchlings to help them find the feed. Quik Chik is a vitamin and electrolyte powder that you add to their water. Diatomaceous earth (food-grade) can be sprinkled in your chicks’ feed to help prevent diseases. When they’re older, sprinkle it in the coop (be sure to wear a respirator) to kill mites. Grit can be helpful after the first week, if the birds have any access to bugs or worms. This allows them to better digest “real” food. Grit is sold at feed or farm stores.
